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Sunday, August 13, 2017
Saturday, August 12, 2017
Friday, August 11, 2017
Wyoming, Montana, Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks
After three National Parks in a little over a week, I'm a little burnt out. I've been calling it "scenery fatigue," or park fatigue. So a few days of doing almost nothing are kind of helping. And then I'm going right back into/over the mountains, probably passing through three Canadian National Parks on my way to Vancouver.
Yesterday was not a good day. Today is OK. Going through 600ish pictures takes a lot of mental energy, though. So this post will be mostly pictures. Some thoughts/words, too. I'm tempted to say not many ... but I know I tend to be long-winded.
From Rapid City, SD, I made a plan about how I was going to do Yellowstone. My host was very helpful, having been there many times, worked in the park, etc. She said I should definitely take the 212 (Beartooth Pass) into the park.
From there I went into Wyoming for just one night. I had an, uh, interesting time in a little bar in Gillette, had a bed to sleep in for a night, then went to Billings for one more night. From there, the park. Maybe not the most direct route, but I'm pretty glad I took the route in that I did.
I did go by Devils Tower, too, which was a good idea. I first saw it pop up about 15 miles away, and it immediately drew my attention.
There are some cool stories about/around Devils Tower. Most of the tribes in the area actually prefer that it's called Bear Lodge -- almost all of them have a name that translates roughly as that (or Bear Tipi, or Where-bear-lives) -- but you know, white people. But one of them was about a guy who, before WWII, was a professional parachutist (that's a profession?). Well, without permission from the parks or the government or anyone really, he decided he'd get dropped on the top of the tower. Success! He did it. He proved you can parachute with fairly good accuracy. And he also proved you can get stuck for six days in inclement weather until they can organize a rescue party to come get your butt down off the rock.
On the way out of Billings I stopped at Pictograph Caves State Park. I guess I wanted/expected some crazy travel through time experience, but unfortunately with as hard to discern as the images have become it was hard to feel very connected to the people of the past who painted them. It was still very cool and I'm still glad I went.
OK, so Yellowstone.
When I started seeing mountains I thought to myself, Oh, cool, I'm almost into the park. Ha, no. It was at least two hours before actually passing through the entrance. Granted, that was with lots of stops. The driving was steep and slow and curvy with lots of switchbacks. My car became almost unresponsive, either from the steepness or the elevation or both. I made liberal use of my car's "auto-manual" feature, basically staying in second and third gear the whole time. First time driving in the mountains; ears popping, head aching. Interesting experience.
At one point I drove by the summit of the Beartooth Pass, and it was over 10,000 feet. I should have stopped to take a pictures, but didn't. Oh well.
Oh, guess what! I'm a bad planner. I didn't get into the park until 1 or 2 in the afternoon, and (no surprise) the campgrounds were all filled up. I had briefly considered the days before still doing a quick backcountry hike and camping just the one night, but decided against it for many reasons. The ranger at the entry station said that if I was considering camping I should turn around and go to one of the campgrounds I passed coming in. But I'm like Nah, Imma wing it like I always do. Oh yeah, and I went on a Friday. Good idea, right?
Around 5:30pm I hit a hard wall. I was very tired (physically) and getting grumpy. I needed food. Thankfully after eating and getting some caffeine I felt a little better (a little), but really it was a waterfall that woke me up.
The Lower Falls again took my breath away and gave me goosebumps and almost made me cry again. I was walking down the trail to the brink of the lower falls, and the more I walked the more I was like Is this even worth it? Another waterfall? Well, walking down it's pretty much impossible to see or even get a sense of the falls until you're right next to it. And as soon as I peeked over the edge I was fully awake again and full of energy and joy and whatever. To the immediate right is an enormous waterfall, probably the biggest falls I've seen in my life (tallest -- although there were a few in Ontario that might have been comparable) where the Yellowstone river drops probably a few hundred feet. Then there is the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. And on the left bank there is this beautiful sight where all of the mist from the falls has settled onto the bank, and it's just all green. Lots of new plant growth and actually tiny little rivulets flowing back into the big river. So much mist that it's actually re-condensed and created little streams of its own. The water cycle before my very eyes.
It took me until almost dark before I reached the southern side of the park (Lake region). The few hours leading up to that I had started to think about what I was going to do, where I was going to sleep. I was leaning toward going down into Grand Teton National Park and seeing if any of the campgrounds there had any spaces. Car sleeping, I thought, was basically out. Parking at any of the main lots, in a roadside turnout, etc, were all invitations for a Ranger to wake me up with some not so nice words. At Lake, I stopped at Lake Lodge to try to get wifi (they had it but it wasn't working right on my phone), and then I came up with what I thought was a brilliant idea. Where are there already tons of cars parked all night, and where one extra isn't going to draw any more attention? One of the hotels/lodges, of course.
I left thinking I'd still check the Teton campgrounds, but I got to the exit back to the main road and saw that the sun was already starting to set, and it'd be probably another hour or more before reaching the first Teton campground. Plus then I'd have to pay, and after dark I probably wouldn't even want to set up a tent so I'd probably sleep in my car anyways. So I turned around and did just that. Arranged my "bedroom" in one lot, then drove to the lot I intended to stay in all night, moved a few things around, and got settled. Left around sunrise and no one suspected a thing.
(With the things moved around they way they have to be to make room to sleep, and with the blanket forting ideas I've been trying out, it's almost impossible to see inside the car. Someone would have to be extremely nosy to even know I'm in there. And assuming the car doesn't draw any extra attention, and it shouldn't, no one should have any reason to come near or look or anything.)
It might take some of the romance and specialness out of what could have been a beautiful experience in nature away -- but it also adds a certain trademark Tony the Cheapskate element to the whole thing. So, it's a wash.
It took almost all day to reach the north side of the park again. Lots of stopping and picture taking, but not a lot of hiking, unfortunately. I finally reached Mammoth Hot Springs by about 4pm. Used wifi in the only building in the park with free wifi I could use, and found the Boiling River before leaving, which was a really unique and really cool experience. It's where water from the hot springs flows into the Gardener River. Move two feet one way or another and you can get water that's either way too hot or too cold.
Oh, the whole no-free-wifi thing is just the beginning of what could be a rant all its own. Yellowstone has to be one of the biggest tourist attractions on earth. Lots of international visitors. And with all those people -- and on Saturday I feel like it really was all of the people -- they try to get as much money out of you as possible. Most shops or restaurants did have wifi, but it was either a pay-by-minute model or you had to buy something from them and they'd give you a code (presumably). Surprisingly, the few places I saw prices in actually had reasonable prices for food, but everything else -- wifi included -- costs money.
Yellowstone is huge, and this post, like my visit, barely scratches the surface. Even if you took out all of the cool geothermal elements and attractions and were just left with forests, mountains, lakes, rivers, canyons, wildlife -- you'd still have a hell of a park. Add in hot springs and geysers and "paint pots" and it's no wonder it's the worlds first National Park.
From there I went to Livingston, MT, where I spent two nights and did my last batch of photo uploading and blogging and sharing, and I cooked some food and relaxed some too. Started to make a plan for Glacier National Park, and kind of last minute decided to look for a couch to surf in Great Falls, MT. Fired off some messages and took off.
Stopped somewhere in the middle and to my surprise, given the very short notice, not one, not two, but three hosts had accepted and made an offer to stay with them for just one night. I updated them all, but plans can change so I didn't accept any one until I was in town. Ultimately, it came down to who it sounded like had the comfier setup. I chose the one with a real bed. Nothing personal.
Glacier isn't as big of a park (it's still pretty damn big), and it doesn't have as many attractions, so I felt more confident in "winging it" there. I got in kind of later in the day, mostly just enjoying a nice, slow scenic drive. Guess what? One of the primitive campgrounds had space! It was a long bumpy drive to get there, but it had a space. I set up a hammock I was borrowed, heated up my leftover dinner from the night before, and got to sleep.
I actually slept quite well, having only hammock slept twice now. It's different for sure, but not bad. And I think at this point my body is just kind of like "Fuck it. You're sleeping, even if you're not comfortable." I was woken up at about 2:30am by a weird hissing noise, definitely wildlife of some sort but I'm not sure what (bird?), which was then followed with some crazy owls that sounded like monkeys. I drifted back to sleep and dreamt of bears and mountain lions, and woke well after sunrise.
I woke up to a spectacular view of Bowman Lake and the mountains in the background. I sent that picture to multiple people that morning, as soon as I reached the visitor center and wifi again.
But after Yellowstone, Glacier just seemed smaller. Not less beautiful, just different. The Going-to-the-Sun Road was built up by a few people I had talked to, and honestly I expected more. It was still a beautiful drive with incredible views, but it wasn't bigger or better than the Beartooth Pass I had driven just a few days before.
Remember that "scenery fatigue" I mentioned? Yeah, I think it's partly that. I've seen so much in the past two weeks I'm not "seeing the forest for the trees," so to speak.
Since then ... I kind of rushed up to Calgary for reasons I explained in a post the other day, and I'm not sure what to make of it. I've confirmed over and over that I'm not really a city person. And I don't know anyone here. And I'm kind of socially inept anyways, and again feeling overwhelmed and alone, so I've mostly kept to myself and I feel like I'm just wasting time.
Maybe more on that later. Besides, this is a Wyoming/Montana post. And those were neat.
Yaaaaayyyyy my picture uploads and blogging is up to date.
Yesterday was not a good day. Today is OK. Going through 600ish pictures takes a lot of mental energy, though. So this post will be mostly pictures. Some thoughts/words, too. I'm tempted to say not many ... but I know I tend to be long-winded.
From Rapid City, SD, I made a plan about how I was going to do Yellowstone. My host was very helpful, having been there many times, worked in the park, etc. She said I should definitely take the 212 (Beartooth Pass) into the park.
From there I went into Wyoming for just one night. I had an, uh, interesting time in a little bar in Gillette, had a bed to sleep in for a night, then went to Billings for one more night. From there, the park. Maybe not the most direct route, but I'm pretty glad I took the route in that I did.
I did go by Devils Tower, too, which was a good idea. I first saw it pop up about 15 miles away, and it immediately drew my attention.
Devils Tower
There are some cool stories about/around Devils Tower. Most of the tribes in the area actually prefer that it's called Bear Lodge -- almost all of them have a name that translates roughly as that (or Bear Tipi, or Where-bear-lives) -- but you know, white people. But one of them was about a guy who, before WWII, was a professional parachutist (that's a profession?). Well, without permission from the parks or the government or anyone really, he decided he'd get dropped on the top of the tower. Success! He did it. He proved you can parachute with fairly good accuracy. And he also proved you can get stuck for six days in inclement weather until they can organize a rescue party to come get your butt down off the rock.
On the way out of Billings I stopped at Pictograph Caves State Park. I guess I wanted/expected some crazy travel through time experience, but unfortunately with as hard to discern as the images have become it was hard to feel very connected to the people of the past who painted them. It was still very cool and I'm still glad I went.
Pictograph Caves
OK, so Yellowstone.
Beartooth Pass (Entering Yellowstone)
When I started seeing mountains I thought to myself, Oh, cool, I'm almost into the park. Ha, no. It was at least two hours before actually passing through the entrance. Granted, that was with lots of stops. The driving was steep and slow and curvy with lots of switchbacks. My car became almost unresponsive, either from the steepness or the elevation or both. I made liberal use of my car's "auto-manual" feature, basically staying in second and third gear the whole time. First time driving in the mountains; ears popping, head aching. Interesting experience.
At one point I drove by the summit of the Beartooth Pass, and it was over 10,000 feet. I should have stopped to take a pictures, but didn't. Oh well.
Yellowstone National Park
Oh, guess what! I'm a bad planner. I didn't get into the park until 1 or 2 in the afternoon, and (no surprise) the campgrounds were all filled up. I had briefly considered the days before still doing a quick backcountry hike and camping just the one night, but decided against it for many reasons. The ranger at the entry station said that if I was considering camping I should turn around and go to one of the campgrounds I passed coming in. But I'm like Nah, Imma wing it like I always do. Oh yeah, and I went on a Friday. Good idea, right?
Around 5:30pm I hit a hard wall. I was very tired (physically) and getting grumpy. I needed food. Thankfully after eating and getting some caffeine I felt a little better (a little), but really it was a waterfall that woke me up.
The Lower Falls again took my breath away and gave me goosebumps and almost made me cry again. I was walking down the trail to the brink of the lower falls, and the more I walked the more I was like Is this even worth it? Another waterfall? Well, walking down it's pretty much impossible to see or even get a sense of the falls until you're right next to it. And as soon as I peeked over the edge I was fully awake again and full of energy and joy and whatever. To the immediate right is an enormous waterfall, probably the biggest falls I've seen in my life (tallest -- although there were a few in Ontario that might have been comparable) where the Yellowstone river drops probably a few hundred feet. Then there is the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. And on the left bank there is this beautiful sight where all of the mist from the falls has settled onto the bank, and it's just all green. Lots of new plant growth and actually tiny little rivulets flowing back into the big river. So much mist that it's actually re-condensed and created little streams of its own. The water cycle before my very eyes.
It took me until almost dark before I reached the southern side of the park (Lake region). The few hours leading up to that I had started to think about what I was going to do, where I was going to sleep. I was leaning toward going down into Grand Teton National Park and seeing if any of the campgrounds there had any spaces. Car sleeping, I thought, was basically out. Parking at any of the main lots, in a roadside turnout, etc, were all invitations for a Ranger to wake me up with some not so nice words. At Lake, I stopped at Lake Lodge to try to get wifi (they had it but it wasn't working right on my phone), and then I came up with what I thought was a brilliant idea. Where are there already tons of cars parked all night, and where one extra isn't going to draw any more attention? One of the hotels/lodges, of course.
I left thinking I'd still check the Teton campgrounds, but I got to the exit back to the main road and saw that the sun was already starting to set, and it'd be probably another hour or more before reaching the first Teton campground. Plus then I'd have to pay, and after dark I probably wouldn't even want to set up a tent so I'd probably sleep in my car anyways. So I turned around and did just that. Arranged my "bedroom" in one lot, then drove to the lot I intended to stay in all night, moved a few things around, and got settled. Left around sunrise and no one suspected a thing.
(With the things moved around they way they have to be to make room to sleep, and with the blanket forting ideas I've been trying out, it's almost impossible to see inside the car. Someone would have to be extremely nosy to even know I'm in there. And assuming the car doesn't draw any extra attention, and it shouldn't, no one should have any reason to come near or look or anything.)
It might take some of the romance and specialness out of what could have been a beautiful experience in nature away -- but it also adds a certain trademark Tony the Cheapskate element to the whole thing. So, it's a wash.
Wildlife in Yellowstone National Park
It took almost all day to reach the north side of the park again. Lots of stopping and picture taking, but not a lot of hiking, unfortunately. I finally reached Mammoth Hot Springs by about 4pm. Used wifi in the only building in the park with free wifi I could use, and found the Boiling River before leaving, which was a really unique and really cool experience. It's where water from the hot springs flows into the Gardener River. Move two feet one way or another and you can get water that's either way too hot or too cold.
Oh, the whole no-free-wifi thing is just the beginning of what could be a rant all its own. Yellowstone has to be one of the biggest tourist attractions on earth. Lots of international visitors. And with all those people -- and on Saturday I feel like it really was all of the people -- they try to get as much money out of you as possible. Most shops or restaurants did have wifi, but it was either a pay-by-minute model or you had to buy something from them and they'd give you a code (presumably). Surprisingly, the few places I saw prices in actually had reasonable prices for food, but everything else -- wifi included -- costs money.
Yellowstone is huge, and this post, like my visit, barely scratches the surface. Even if you took out all of the cool geothermal elements and attractions and were just left with forests, mountains, lakes, rivers, canyons, wildlife -- you'd still have a hell of a park. Add in hot springs and geysers and "paint pots" and it's no wonder it's the worlds first National Park.
From there I went to Livingston, MT, where I spent two nights and did my last batch of photo uploading and blogging and sharing, and I cooked some food and relaxed some too. Started to make a plan for Glacier National Park, and kind of last minute decided to look for a couch to surf in Great Falls, MT. Fired off some messages and took off.
Stopped somewhere in the middle and to my surprise, given the very short notice, not one, not two, but three hosts had accepted and made an offer to stay with them for just one night. I updated them all, but plans can change so I didn't accept any one until I was in town. Ultimately, it came down to who it sounded like had the comfier setup. I chose the one with a real bed. Nothing personal.
Glacier isn't as big of a park (it's still pretty damn big), and it doesn't have as many attractions, so I felt more confident in "winging it" there. I got in kind of later in the day, mostly just enjoying a nice, slow scenic drive. Guess what? One of the primitive campgrounds had space! It was a long bumpy drive to get there, but it had a space. I set up a hammock I was borrowed, heated up my leftover dinner from the night before, and got to sleep.
I actually slept quite well, having only hammock slept twice now. It's different for sure, but not bad. And I think at this point my body is just kind of like "Fuck it. You're sleeping, even if you're not comfortable." I was woken up at about 2:30am by a weird hissing noise, definitely wildlife of some sort but I'm not sure what (bird?), which was then followed with some crazy owls that sounded like monkeys. I drifted back to sleep and dreamt of bears and mountain lions, and woke well after sunrise.
Glacier National Park
I woke up to a spectacular view of Bowman Lake and the mountains in the background. I sent that picture to multiple people that morning, as soon as I reached the visitor center and wifi again.
But after Yellowstone, Glacier just seemed smaller. Not less beautiful, just different. The Going-to-the-Sun Road was built up by a few people I had talked to, and honestly I expected more. It was still a beautiful drive with incredible views, but it wasn't bigger or better than the Beartooth Pass I had driven just a few days before.
Remember that "scenery fatigue" I mentioned? Yeah, I think it's partly that. I've seen so much in the past two weeks I'm not "seeing the forest for the trees," so to speak.
Since then ... I kind of rushed up to Calgary for reasons I explained in a post the other day, and I'm not sure what to make of it. I've confirmed over and over that I'm not really a city person. And I don't know anyone here. And I'm kind of socially inept anyways, and again feeling overwhelmed and alone, so I've mostly kept to myself and I feel like I'm just wasting time.
Maybe more on that later. Besides, this is a Wyoming/Montana post. And those were neat.
Assorted Photos from Wyoming and Montana
Yaaaaayyyyy my picture uploads and blogging is up to date.
Thursday, August 10, 2017
Couch Surfing Fail
So last night sucked.
I left Glacier at about 6, but before I did I took advantage of the free wifi at the last visitor center. To my pleasure two hosts had replied. Not knowing what could happen, I updated them both.
As I've been learning on this trip, I can safely add 1-2 hours at least to all predicted travel times. I very rarely drive straight through when I'm going to be in the car more than two hours. Google maps predicted 3 hours 3 minutes, but going by experience I told them both I'd be arriving around 10pm at the earliest. I asked both if that was OK, and assured them if it was too late I'd find something else. I had a feeling that the border crossing would take a bit, and figured I'd stop for wifi in the middle.
I honestly didn't want to drive all the way to Calgary last night for these reasons. I messaged people in a town closer to the border, but got no responses. I was right on both delays, and I arrived at about 10:15.
Host one, the one I thought I had the best chance of staying with, assured me it was only a three hour drive and I'd be in town around 9, ignoring my estimate. She tried to call while I was driving, but I have no service. I'm in a different country; my phone doesn't work right. I'm happy it works at all, and wifi is saving me.
Host two was easy going about it, but said she'd be out until 11:30. So I tried to arrange with host one.
I found wifi, messaged host one, explained the no service, wifi only situation. She said she was about to get in bed already, but if I was close the couch was mine. Got the OK. Got an address. Have her an estimate. Said "I'll head over. See you soon." I guess I assumed I'm leaving wifi and you won't be able to reach me was implied. Never assume.
I also assumed that I was driving to a house. No. Apartment complex. Great. Which apartment? I drove around the parking lot to see if she was outside waiting for me. Raining, so of course not.
I knew there must have been a follow up message, so it was back to looking for wifi.
Found it. Already 15 minutes later than I told her I'd be. Sure enough, a message one minute after I left wifi the first time. She told me where to park and what building she was in. Great! Headed back.
Wandered around figuring out which building. Found it. Great, 20 units with buzzers and the door is locked. It didn't occur to me until after I got back that I now knew a building but not an apartment number. Do I buzz them all? At 11 o'clock on a Wednesday? No.
So I just stood outside in the open looking super shady, hoping she'd look out and see me. Now 30 minutes after I said I'd be there. At different times I thought I heard knocking on a window, and someone saying "Hello?" Were those addressed to me? No idea. And how did they help me?
Pull out my phone to see if there are any open networks. Of course not.
By 11:30, 45 minutes after my expected arrival time, I gave up. I could have went back to my wifi spot again and figured it out. I could have. But I got the impression she was already annoyed and/or asleep, and might leave a bad reference. Still early in the trip, I don't need that. Rather than wake her up, piss her off, only to then be shooed out at 6am anyways.... Nah.
I found a new wifi spot, with a better connection. Sent her a message apologizing, and saying I'll figure something else out. No response; either sleeping or pissed off. Still no response this morning, so I'm leaning towards pissed off.
I tried again to contact host two. No response.
So I made another plan, to hide in plain sight again. It worked. I slept OK but could have used a few extra hours. I'm sitting in a McDonald's (in a Walmart) writing this on my phone. When a library opens at 9 I'll go there.
Lessons learned:
- Trust my instinct. I didn't want to drive all the way to Calgary last night. I knew it'd be too late. I let this happen.
- Be abundantly clear that wifi is my only way to connect to communicate while I'm in Canada. No extra info while I'm on the way. I can't call or text.
- Get all of the information. House or apartment? Apartment number? Where do I park? Which door? How do I let you know I'm there? I can't call or text.
- Have a back up plan anyways. The surf might not work out for so many reasons.
I'm annoyed, a little groggy, but I also realize this is partly (mostly?) my fault. Yes, it's largely the lack of cell service, but I also wasn't prepared enough or thinking everything completely through. It's not really her fault at all. She didn't give me complete information, but she's probably used to being able to just send a quick text.
So... I search again today. Hopefully things go a little (a lot) better.
Wednesday, August 9, 2017
Tuesday, August 8, 2017
Monday, August 7, 2017
South Dakota
After just posting the Minnesota post, which feels forever ago and weird because it was already three states ago, I think I need to try to keep up a little better. I'm about blogged out, so it will still be a few days before I get to the Yellowstone pictures/post, but I'm going to try to get pictures up and type the words while they're still fresh(er).
Thankfully I entered South Dakota in a better mood. I had another couchsurf arranged, I arrived, all was good. This host was a lot different than the first, in neither a good or a bad way. It just made it clear to me right away that this couchsurfing thing was going to be interesting, and that I was going to meet a huge variety of people before I'm done.
Not a lot of words, I guess. I was in a better mood and starting to have a better idea of how to plan and execute everything. But, uh, here are some pictures!
The Corn Palace is about half-way across the state -- which is nice, because it broke up the monotonous drive across South Dakota, where there isn't a whole lot of variety or things to see -- and it is lie the definition of a tourist trap. But it was cool.
And when I came around the corner I saw a basset hound and a smile instantly cracked and I snuck a picture or two then approached. Unfortunately she was very shy and didn't really let me pet her (I snuck an ear-rub), but I talked to her people for a few minutes, and it was nice.
OK, yeah, the Badlands were amazing. On one of the many signs somewhere in the park there was a quote that summed it up pretty well. Paraphrased, It's an implausible place. It looks like a setting from science fiction.
I started to experience many instances of literally having my breath taken from me, just with the awe of what was in front of me. That some place like this could exist. And I've experienced it several times since, and probably will continue to.
My "camping" experience there was a story all its own, which I might sum up another time (don't feel like typing it out right now). I had intended on staying two nights, but by early afternoon on the second day felt like it was time to move on. Unfortunately I didn't make a good plan to explore the Black Hills area, but I did make a couple cool stops.
I ended up taking a long gravel road most of the way from the Badlands to the Black Hills, and felt pretty stupid for it. Bad planning, as per usual. Thankfully it wasn't too bumpy, but I don't really want to find myself on a long stretch of dirt road in the middle of nowhere all by myself again.
Wind Cave was cool. I had never been in a cave before, and it was a neat experience. It was kind of on a whim that I decided to go, and had to pay for a tour, but whatever. The tour guide was knowledgeable and you could tell passionate, and probably not an inch over five feet. (She was constantly telling us "It's really low here, be careful," while not even having to duck herself.)
I also, kind of, sort of, not really bumped into people I also kind of bumped into at the Corn Palace the day before. Again, maybe another story for another day.
(If this album isn't embedded -- it's being difficult -- try this.)
From Wind Cave, through the Black Hills, to Rapid City was a nice drive. Hilly and scenic. I decided not to stop at Rushmore, because 10 dollar just to park? No thanks. And then shortly past there the weather got really weird. Going into Rapid City I basically drove a semi-circle around a rain storm that at any moment looked as if it could go full tornado or something. It was freaky, but beautiful. In the "assorted" album above you can see a few pictures, but they don't really convey what it looked or felt like.
My host there was cool, someone I feel like I would have been friends with (or at least known in the same circle of people) if she lived in TC. A plant biologist that actually works for the NPS.
While in Rapid City I did make one trip into the town, and they had a few pieces of the Berlin Wall, which was totally random, but neat. And while in that park someone with tattoos on his face approached me way too close for comfort and just said "What's up bro?" as he walked past. It was broad daylight. Just ... weird. So I kind of kept a wide berth from everyone else for the rest of that walk.
From there I went to Billings, MT. Cool, right?
Thankfully I entered South Dakota in a better mood. I had another couchsurf arranged, I arrived, all was good. This host was a lot different than the first, in neither a good or a bad way. It just made it clear to me right away that this couchsurfing thing was going to be interesting, and that I was going to meet a huge variety of people before I'm done.
Not a lot of words, I guess. I was in a better mood and starting to have a better idea of how to plan and execute everything. But, uh, here are some pictures!
The Corn Palace is about half-way across the state -- which is nice, because it broke up the monotonous drive across South Dakota, where there isn't a whole lot of variety or things to see -- and it is lie the definition of a tourist trap. But it was cool.
And when I came around the corner I saw a basset hound and a smile instantly cracked and I snuck a picture or two then approached. Unfortunately she was very shy and didn't really let me pet her (I snuck an ear-rub), but I talked to her people for a few minutes, and it was nice.
The Corn Palace
OK, yeah, the Badlands were amazing. On one of the many signs somewhere in the park there was a quote that summed it up pretty well. Paraphrased, It's an implausible place. It looks like a setting from science fiction.
I started to experience many instances of literally having my breath taken from me, just with the awe of what was in front of me. That some place like this could exist. And I've experienced it several times since, and probably will continue to.
Badlands National Park
My "camping" experience there was a story all its own, which I might sum up another time (don't feel like typing it out right now). I had intended on staying two nights, but by early afternoon on the second day felt like it was time to move on. Unfortunately I didn't make a good plan to explore the Black Hills area, but I did make a couple cool stops.
I ended up taking a long gravel road most of the way from the Badlands to the Black Hills, and felt pretty stupid for it. Bad planning, as per usual. Thankfully it wasn't too bumpy, but I don't really want to find myself on a long stretch of dirt road in the middle of nowhere all by myself again.
Wind Cave was cool. I had never been in a cave before, and it was a neat experience. It was kind of on a whim that I decided to go, and had to pay for a tour, but whatever. The tour guide was knowledgeable and you could tell passionate, and probably not an inch over five feet. (She was constantly telling us "It's really low here, be careful," while not even having to duck herself.)
I also, kind of, sort of, not really bumped into people I also kind of bumped into at the Corn Palace the day before. Again, maybe another story for another day.
Wind Cave National Park
(If this album isn't embedded -- it's being difficult -- try this.)
From Wind Cave, through the Black Hills, to Rapid City was a nice drive. Hilly and scenic. I decided not to stop at Rushmore, because 10 dollar just to park? No thanks. And then shortly past there the weather got really weird. Going into Rapid City I basically drove a semi-circle around a rain storm that at any moment looked as if it could go full tornado or something. It was freaky, but beautiful. In the "assorted" album above you can see a few pictures, but they don't really convey what it looked or felt like.
My host there was cool, someone I feel like I would have been friends with (or at least known in the same circle of people) if she lived in TC. A plant biologist that actually works for the NPS.
While in Rapid City I did make one trip into the town, and they had a few pieces of the Berlin Wall, which was totally random, but neat. And while in that park someone with tattoos on his face approached me way too close for comfort and just said "What's up bro?" as he walked past. It was broad daylight. Just ... weird. So I kind of kept a wide berth from everyone else for the rest of that walk.
From there I went to Billings, MT. Cool, right?
Minnesota
My re-entry into the US from Ontario, I think I might have mentioned in a different post, was quick and uneventful. The agent at the window basically asked where I was from, what I was doing in Canada, asked, and I quote "Do you have anything bad?" and when I replied that I did not, just said "Welcome back."
In Thunder Bay I drove out to Fort William Historical Park -- and it was nothing like I expected. They charged $14 for a tour, where from what I could gather interpreters dressed in period garb would walk and talk and so on, but I just wasn't feeling it. I was expecting something more like Mackinac Island, and it was nothing like that, from what I could tell.
However, just across the border was exactly what I was expecting. Grand Portage National Historical Monument, where I decided to stop on a whim, was actually pretty cool. The highlight, for me, being the few enormous birch bark canoes they had there. Oh, and the fact that one of the interpreters was cooking himself dinner, basically, and that was his job there.
From there I drove down the shoreline, following Lake Superior. To say it was disappointing after the Ontario shoreline would be unfair, but it wasn't as scenic. The land was starting to flatten out and the view of the water was mostly obscured by trees. It was still a nice drive, but just not what I had just experienced in the previous days.
I stopped in Grand Marais, MN, which was a nice little town. I've been to the Grand Marais in the UP probably a dozen times, so I felt like I needed to see the other one. It was a bigger town than the Michigan one, but still small. Walked around a bit, and used the internet at the library. Sent some Couchsurfing messages and received no response.
I decided to keep driving, to get closer to Duluth. Around the time it got dark I pulled into a rest stop which had wifi, and used the internet in my car for a while. But for some reason I didn't want to stay there, so I decided to keep driving.
The rest of my night was pretty awful.
About 20 miles down the road I found another rest stop, this one attached to a state park. It seemed less hospitable than the last, and no internet. I already had wished I had stayed at the last one (and it was about 11 o'clock by then). Thanks to mis-reading a map, I thought there was one more rest area between where I was and Duluth, so I decided to drive to it. Got to what I thought was it and -- it was a chamber of commerce parking lot. I pulled up the map (saved in a tab on my laptop) and sure enough, the rest area I was already at was the one I was looking for. So tired, and at this point angry, I turned around, back-tracked again, and drove back to that one. I picked a parking spot that I thought would be private, and figured out how to block out my windows a bit, more for sun than privacy, but kind of for both.
I actually slept pretty well that night, finally. And the blanket fort made for decent privacy. Someone would have to be exceptionally nosy to even know I'm in my vehicle, so as far as that goes, I'm sort of reassured.
In the morning I went to go use the bathrooms, but out of curiosity decided to walk towards the falls that were apparently there, and they were pretty. So I wasn't in a terrible, terrible mood after that.
I went to Duluth that morning, bought some groceries, visited their libraries. Their downtown main branch was huge. But Duluth is actually pretty big, or at least a lot bigger than I'm used to. I had to park downtown, and had to run out once to feed the meter. I was still doing computer stuff, but didn't want to just put dollar after dollar in the meter, so I decided to relocated to their western branch, which was smaller and had their own parking lot.
While there I finalized a plan for my first couch surf, and got on the road again. I made a stop at Hammerheart Brewing Company. I had met Austin, one of the guys who runs the place, when he had been in Traverse City about a year and a half ago, and I decided it'd be good to stop by. He was really nice, and even though he was busy took a few minutes to chat with me about a variety of things. Slid me a free beer and two small pours of some of their more premium stuff. Later that night I arrived in Chanhassen, outside of Minneapolis, and met my host for the night (actually the next night too).
Before I left the Minneapolis area I decided to try some Somali food, which was recommended to me. It was good. They gave me a banana I didn't quite know what to do with, but I just broke it up and put it in with the meat and rice and it actually complimented it quite well. But I'm still not sure if that's what I was "supposed to" do.
And I also decided to go to a "ninja" gym for the first time. It just so happened that a few weeks previously, before leaving home, I saw an episode of American Ninja Warrior and in it they mentioned Conquer Ninja Warrior outside of Minneapolis, so I kind of knew it was there. There are gyms like this all over the country now, but I decided to give this one a try.
Pretty much all of the obstacles are properly hard, and I could only successfully manage a few. It was very humbling. Almost all of them depend on great grip strength and proper technique -- neither of which I had. There is a large discrepency between the grip strength of my right hand and my left hand; my right hand could grip many things, but my left really couldn't manage much at all. Oh well. I know another weakness.
But as some consolation, I was able to do their warped wall (a thirteen foot wall) on my first try, and two times after that. So that was neat.
Unfortunately I still feel like I didn't get to properly experience Minnesota, mostly because of my mood. In the Land of 10,000 Lakes, I really only got to see Superior, and maybe a few smaller ones I drove by. I wanted to swim, but didn't. I wanted to do several other things, but didn't. I mostly just drove through.
I confirmed what I long believed, though, that Minnesota is very similar to Michigan. The northern parts of the states are both more scenic, with more variety in the landscape. Same flora and fauna, mostly. And as you get further south the forests become more deciduous, the land becomes flatter, there is more farm land, and so on.
So that was Minnesota.
In Thunder Bay I drove out to Fort William Historical Park -- and it was nothing like I expected. They charged $14 for a tour, where from what I could gather interpreters dressed in period garb would walk and talk and so on, but I just wasn't feeling it. I was expecting something more like Mackinac Island, and it was nothing like that, from what I could tell.
However, just across the border was exactly what I was expecting. Grand Portage National Historical Monument, where I decided to stop on a whim, was actually pretty cool. The highlight, for me, being the few enormous birch bark canoes they had there. Oh, and the fact that one of the interpreters was cooking himself dinner, basically, and that was his job there.
From there I drove down the shoreline, following Lake Superior. To say it was disappointing after the Ontario shoreline would be unfair, but it wasn't as scenic. The land was starting to flatten out and the view of the water was mostly obscured by trees. It was still a nice drive, but just not what I had just experienced in the previous days.
I stopped in Grand Marais, MN, which was a nice little town. I've been to the Grand Marais in the UP probably a dozen times, so I felt like I needed to see the other one. It was a bigger town than the Michigan one, but still small. Walked around a bit, and used the internet at the library. Sent some Couchsurfing messages and received no response.
I decided to keep driving, to get closer to Duluth. Around the time it got dark I pulled into a rest stop which had wifi, and used the internet in my car for a while. But for some reason I didn't want to stay there, so I decided to keep driving.
The rest of my night was pretty awful.
About 20 miles down the road I found another rest stop, this one attached to a state park. It seemed less hospitable than the last, and no internet. I already had wished I had stayed at the last one (and it was about 11 o'clock by then). Thanks to mis-reading a map, I thought there was one more rest area between where I was and Duluth, so I decided to drive to it. Got to what I thought was it and -- it was a chamber of commerce parking lot. I pulled up the map (saved in a tab on my laptop) and sure enough, the rest area I was already at was the one I was looking for. So tired, and at this point angry, I turned around, back-tracked again, and drove back to that one. I picked a parking spot that I thought would be private, and figured out how to block out my windows a bit, more for sun than privacy, but kind of for both.
I actually slept pretty well that night, finally. And the blanket fort made for decent privacy. Someone would have to be exceptionally nosy to even know I'm in my vehicle, so as far as that goes, I'm sort of reassured.
In the morning I went to go use the bathrooms, but out of curiosity decided to walk towards the falls that were apparently there, and they were pretty. So I wasn't in a terrible, terrible mood after that.
I went to Duluth that morning, bought some groceries, visited their libraries. Their downtown main branch was huge. But Duluth is actually pretty big, or at least a lot bigger than I'm used to. I had to park downtown, and had to run out once to feed the meter. I was still doing computer stuff, but didn't want to just put dollar after dollar in the meter, so I decided to relocated to their western branch, which was smaller and had their own parking lot.
While there I finalized a plan for my first couch surf, and got on the road again. I made a stop at Hammerheart Brewing Company. I had met Austin, one of the guys who runs the place, when he had been in Traverse City about a year and a half ago, and I decided it'd be good to stop by. He was really nice, and even though he was busy took a few minutes to chat with me about a variety of things. Slid me a free beer and two small pours of some of their more premium stuff. Later that night I arrived in Chanhassen, outside of Minneapolis, and met my host for the night (actually the next night too).
Then I had a couple of really weird days. I was super grateful for a bed to sleep in, and some good rest, but emotions and an overactive brain really kind of derailed me for two or three days. So unfortunately I didn't get to see as much of Minnesota as I would have liked. I did make a trip back into downtown Minneapolis and wandered around a little bit, though. I went to Minnehaha Falls Park and the sculpture garden, but that was about it.
Before I left the Minneapolis area I decided to try some Somali food, which was recommended to me. It was good. They gave me a banana I didn't quite know what to do with, but I just broke it up and put it in with the meat and rice and it actually complimented it quite well. But I'm still not sure if that's what I was "supposed to" do.
And I also decided to go to a "ninja" gym for the first time. It just so happened that a few weeks previously, before leaving home, I saw an episode of American Ninja Warrior and in it they mentioned Conquer Ninja Warrior outside of Minneapolis, so I kind of knew it was there. There are gyms like this all over the country now, but I decided to give this one a try.
Pretty much all of the obstacles are properly hard, and I could only successfully manage a few. It was very humbling. Almost all of them depend on great grip strength and proper technique -- neither of which I had. There is a large discrepency between the grip strength of my right hand and my left hand; my right hand could grip many things, but my left really couldn't manage much at all. Oh well. I know another weakness.
But as some consolation, I was able to do their warped wall (a thirteen foot wall) on my first try, and two times after that. So that was neat.
Unfortunately I still feel like I didn't get to properly experience Minnesota, mostly because of my mood. In the Land of 10,000 Lakes, I really only got to see Superior, and maybe a few smaller ones I drove by. I wanted to swim, but didn't. I wanted to do several other things, but didn't. I mostly just drove through.
I confirmed what I long believed, though, that Minnesota is very similar to Michigan. The northern parts of the states are both more scenic, with more variety in the landscape. Same flora and fauna, mostly. And as you get further south the forests become more deciduous, the land becomes flatter, there is more farm land, and so on.
So that was Minnesota.
Sunday, August 6, 2017
Saturday, August 5, 2017
Friday, August 4, 2017
Thursday, August 3, 2017
The Trip So Far: Two Weeks
The first week was really interesting, and a huge learning experience. Couch surfing wasn't happening, I was super, super unorganized. I was tired and finding myself really overwhelmed by the littlest of things.
Week two has went much, much better. Couch surfing is working out better. I'm in a much better mood and have a better outlook on things going forward. I'm getting better sleep. I'm planning a little better. And I still have so much further and longer to go.
But I think I'm having fun. I'm doing new things, seeing some truly amazing places. I'm getting the hang of it.
I'm still finding myself getting really emotional at times. Several times in the last week I've experience literal breath-taking moments, and been in complete awe at what is in front of me. It's usually accompanied by a big stupid grin and being on the verge of tears. And knowing what is around the corner, that will only continue.
WiFi hopping is still a constant, and for reasons unknown to me through much of South Dakota and now on the east side of Wyoming, I continue to have no cell service. I expected at least roaming. So WiFi is huge for me. Looking at a service map it looks like it won't be until I get to the west coast that cell service will be consistent again -- which is OK, but at least a week or two away. Canada part two will be coming up and I know I won't have service there. So lots of libraries, coffee shops, and fast food restaurant parking lots until then.
I have a ton of pictures to go through from Minnesota and South Dakota. When I feel the urge I'll go through them and pick the best ones and post them and write a little bit about my experiences in both of those states, I'll be writing a post/a couple of posts. But it's a lot of pictures, so I kind of have to work myself up to it. That alone will probably take hours.
As strange as it is, because it's a "vacation" and because I'm trying to relax and take my time, and because I'm not working, it seems like, in a way, it should be easy going. Just goof off for a couple months. But I'm finding that I'm actually busier than I've been in a long, long time, and it's all essential to the task I'm trying to complete. It is taking a lot of work in planning, then executing a plan, and making sure I'm stocked, ready to go on each new leg, not forgetting things, etc. Every time I sit down to use the internet there is something I need to do. Maps, maps, maps, and more maps. Reading park info sites. Sending messages.
It's a lot. But because I'm alone I also am trying to keep all this social media stuff updated so I have some connection to the outside world and home. It's silly, but seeing the same handful of people hitting like on so many different things really does make me feel a little less alone, and like I'm actually getting to share the experience with all of you. So things like typing this up are actually really important to me, even if only a small handful of people are reading it. I say "small handful," and that almost sounds bad, like I want more people to see and like everything, but it's not. I keep seeing the same names on everything and it makes me feel good.
This is part of how I keep finding myself overwhelmed. There is a lot to be done. But beyond that, it's not even necessarily what's going on, but just the possibilities. I could go anywhere and do anything; trying to narrow it down to what I really want to and will do takes a lot of mental energy and a lot of planning.
Anyways ... posts from Minnesota and South Dakota coming. Some cool stuff.
Week two has went much, much better. Couch surfing is working out better. I'm in a much better mood and have a better outlook on things going forward. I'm getting better sleep. I'm planning a little better. And I still have so much further and longer to go.
But I think I'm having fun. I'm doing new things, seeing some truly amazing places. I'm getting the hang of it.
I'm still finding myself getting really emotional at times. Several times in the last week I've experience literal breath-taking moments, and been in complete awe at what is in front of me. It's usually accompanied by a big stupid grin and being on the verge of tears. And knowing what is around the corner, that will only continue.
WiFi hopping is still a constant, and for reasons unknown to me through much of South Dakota and now on the east side of Wyoming, I continue to have no cell service. I expected at least roaming. So WiFi is huge for me. Looking at a service map it looks like it won't be until I get to the west coast that cell service will be consistent again -- which is OK, but at least a week or two away. Canada part two will be coming up and I know I won't have service there. So lots of libraries, coffee shops, and fast food restaurant parking lots until then.
I have a ton of pictures to go through from Minnesota and South Dakota. When I feel the urge I'll go through them and pick the best ones and post them and write a little bit about my experiences in both of those states, I'll be writing a post/a couple of posts. But it's a lot of pictures, so I kind of have to work myself up to it. That alone will probably take hours.
As strange as it is, because it's a "vacation" and because I'm trying to relax and take my time, and because I'm not working, it seems like, in a way, it should be easy going. Just goof off for a couple months. But I'm finding that I'm actually busier than I've been in a long, long time, and it's all essential to the task I'm trying to complete. It is taking a lot of work in planning, then executing a plan, and making sure I'm stocked, ready to go on each new leg, not forgetting things, etc. Every time I sit down to use the internet there is something I need to do. Maps, maps, maps, and more maps. Reading park info sites. Sending messages.
It's a lot. But because I'm alone I also am trying to keep all this social media stuff updated so I have some connection to the outside world and home. It's silly, but seeing the same handful of people hitting like on so many different things really does make me feel a little less alone, and like I'm actually getting to share the experience with all of you. So things like typing this up are actually really important to me, even if only a small handful of people are reading it. I say "small handful," and that almost sounds bad, like I want more people to see and like everything, but it's not. I keep seeing the same names on everything and it makes me feel good.
This is part of how I keep finding myself overwhelmed. There is a lot to be done. But beyond that, it's not even necessarily what's going on, but just the possibilities. I could go anywhere and do anything; trying to narrow it down to what I really want to and will do takes a lot of mental energy and a lot of planning.
Anyways ... posts from Minnesota and South Dakota coming. Some cool stuff.
Wednesday, August 2, 2017
Tuesday, August 1, 2017
Monday, July 31, 2017
Sunday, July 30, 2017
Saturday, July 29, 2017
The Trip So Far: After Week 1
I'm on Day 9, and a lot has happened so far, and I've learned a lot.
When I started the draft for this post it was on Day 4, and I was in a lot worse mood than I'm in today. I was tired. Really tired. I needed actual sleep. I had only slept in my car or camped, and my sleep quality (and length) was pretty poor. It was wearing me down. I had a night that I went to sleep in a horrible mood, but thankfully got some decent sleep, and things have improved since then. I've now had two successful couch surfs and am starting to figure out how to go about it setting them up smarter. Hopefully from here on it will go a little better. If I ended up having to sleep in my car every night, I think I would have probably gotten more and more miserable and maybe ended up calling it quits. Thankfully, it's changing.
The problem I was having in the beginning was not planning far enough ahead. And unfortunately, that's kind of the nature of this trip. Lots of things are going to be last-minute. But I was getting only "declined," or no response at all. Now that I'll have a few references, and I decided to go ahead with the verification payment, that should help. I'm also going to try to "plan" 3-4 days in advance.
Which, is confusing, because I'm still planning where I'm going and what I'm doing in each area either the day of, or a day before. I think I have to; I'm covering too much ground to plan every little thing long in advance. I could have before I took off, I suppose, but that alone might have taken weeks, and then the whole spontaneity aspect of the trip is gone. So I'm going to plan which areas I'm in a few days in advance, but then make actual plans for each area while I'm there (or shortly before).
So that was a big part of my earlier stress. I was too unorganized and was making bad planning decisions. I spent longer than I intended in Thunder Bay, ON, and it was largely because I hadn't really thought of where I wanted to go in the area. The first night was basically a waste. I spent too much time looking for WiFi, criss-crossing the town, I backtracked a long way to camp, etc. So I did learn some lessons there. Plan sights in a way that makes sense so I can do it with a route that doesn't overlap and add a lot of extra mileage. Keep going roughly in the "right" direction with minimal backtracking.
Plan enough in advance so I have an idea of what I'm doing, at least, and work out the finer details as needed.
(It does feel weird the way I'm sight-seeing, though. It's basic tourist stuff, mostly, but being alone feels strange. I go into a place, take some pictures, and leave. I don't feel like I'm fully appreciating each place -- but I am? I don't know. It's weird. I think a lot of what makes any experience what it is is who you share it with. If I was with family or friends, I would be sharing each experience with them. But I'm alone. Yeah, I'm posting much of what I see on social media, so I'm sharing that way -- but it's pretty artificial. I'm sure I'll continue to struggle with this.)
Spending too much time in Thunder Bay also made me realize that I kind of need to keep moving. Yes, obviously I can stick around in an area for a few days and see what I want to see, but I also need keep moving. So early in the trip, if I'm ever going to get anywhere I need to keep going. I need to do some driving most days.
But on the flip-side, I might have moved through Minnesota too fast, and not explored as much as I would have liked. But I guess a bad mood and poor sleep and way too much happening in my head contributed to that.
So there is also an element of quality versus quantity I have to work out. I can spend a lot of time in every area and see each and every little spot -- or, I can spend less time, though get some time in each area while still heading in the planned direction. It's a little confusing, but I'm starting to figure it out.
Canada was especially bad for this, since I had no native cell service at all, but the trip is going to be one WiFi hotspot to the next, to an extent. I have been picking up paper maps as I enter each new state (or province), but Google maps and other websites are kind of my lifeline. And also for communication.
Something is always charging. My phone has been dying so fast. It's plugged in while I'm in the car pretty much constantly. My old phone, which I use for music, also needs charging every few days. My laptop keeps a charge for a long time, so I have been able to use it sitting in my car connected to wifi or something, but in libraries and at my surfs I've been making sure it stays charged. And I also bought, last minute, an external battery pack which is great. If I know I'm going to be away from my car for a while, I can throw the battery pack in my bag and I'll be able to charge my phone off of it.
After a few kind of dark days, when it felt like I wasn't enjoying myself, things are getting brighter. The clouds are parting. The reality of being away from home, alone, has set in and I think I've come to terms with it. I might not see every little bit of each area I go through, but I will be able to see lots and lots. It's definitely a learning experience, but I think I might be having fun.
Canada was especially bad for this, since I had no native cell service at all, but the trip is going to be one WiFi hotspot to the next, to an extent. I have been picking up paper maps as I enter each new state (or province), but Google maps and other websites are kind of my lifeline. And also for communication.
Something is always charging. My phone has been dying so fast. It's plugged in while I'm in the car pretty much constantly. My old phone, which I use for music, also needs charging every few days. My laptop keeps a charge for a long time, so I have been able to use it sitting in my car connected to wifi or something, but in libraries and at my surfs I've been making sure it stays charged. And I also bought, last minute, an external battery pack which is great. If I know I'm going to be away from my car for a while, I can throw the battery pack in my bag and I'll be able to charge my phone off of it.
After a few kind of dark days, when it felt like I wasn't enjoying myself, things are getting brighter. The clouds are parting. The reality of being away from home, alone, has set in and I think I've come to terms with it. I might not see every little bit of each area I go through, but I will be able to see lots and lots. It's definitely a learning experience, but I think I might be having fun.
"This is it. If I take one more step, it'll be the farthest away from home I've ever been." My Samwise Moment.
With my drive last night, I think I'm officially the furthest West I've ever been. As a kid we went to Louisiana, and I think were in the Shreveport area. I'm now in Sioux Falls, SD.
Two days ago I had a pretty rough time. I was homesick and overwhelmed with a very "fish out of water" feeling. And there was also this idea; I was almost as far west as I had ever been. It was a weird, yet significant, mental block. I did a similar thing at the Canadian border. I spent an hour or more in Sault Ste. Marie, MI -- for almost no reason.
My host the other day called it my Samwise Gamgee moment, and I thought the comparison was hilariously accurate. That was just the beginning of their adventure.
Thankfully a few nights of good sleep have done a lot for my mood and my clarity. But it's still a milestone of sorts, even if it's not truly that significant.
Today or tomorrow (not positive yet) I'll continue on across South Dakota. I'll hopefully spend one or two nights in the wilderness of Badlands National Park, and then hopefully a couch in Rapid City, SD. Then, continuing westward.
Hopefully I don't end up at Mt. Doom -- but if I do, that'd actually be kind of awesome.
Day 8 - A couch to surf on. Or sleep, I guess. #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #southdakota #couchsurfing
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Day 8 - I'm in South Dakota now. #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #southdakota #bordercrossing
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Friday, July 28, 2017
Day 8 - InterlAchen #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #ohlookimalmosthome
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First Couchsurfing Success!
So the past two nights I've been staying in a stranger's home. Weird, right? My earliest attempts were not working well, I think largely because of my lack of references and my poor planning, er, um, let's call it "spontaneity" -- every request was being denied.
However, thanks to one small bit of foresight I had, I had a "public trip" listed to Minneapolis, and someone messaged me offering me a place to crash. At this point I had been sleeping in my car mostly, plus one night camping, and I was not getting good sleep at all. Sleeping indoors with like, actual cushioning beneath me....
It's been an ... well, it's been an interesting experience, for reasons I might get into another day. But there's been a little wiener dog I've gotten to hang out with (he's sleeping on my lap right now), which has been great for my mind. My host is super laid back, very accommodating, has given me encouragement and advice. Strangely we've both seen each other in not so good moments (she's dealing with a crisis, I'm dealing with being away from home and alone), so it's been a crash-course in getting to know a stranger in two days. But overall, I think, good.
So it's been great, and hopefully I'll get a reference, and then I can also start to plan at least slightly better and send requests 3-4 days before I intend on being in an area, and hopefully stay on top of the wave, so to speak.
However, thanks to one small bit of foresight I had, I had a "public trip" listed to Minneapolis, and someone messaged me offering me a place to crash. At this point I had been sleeping in my car mostly, plus one night camping, and I was not getting good sleep at all. Sleeping indoors with like, actual cushioning beneath me....
It's been an ... well, it's been an interesting experience, for reasons I might get into another day. But there's been a little wiener dog I've gotten to hang out with (he's sleeping on my lap right now), which has been great for my mind. My host is super laid back, very accommodating, has given me encouragement and advice. Strangely we've both seen each other in not so good moments (she's dealing with a crisis, I'm dealing with being away from home and alone), so it's been a crash-course in getting to know a stranger in two days. But overall, I think, good.
So it's been great, and hopefully I'll get a reference, and then I can also start to plan at least slightly better and send requests 3-4 days before I intend on being in an area, and hopefully stay on top of the wave, so to speak.
Thursday, July 27, 2017
Day 7 - Minnehaha Falls #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #minnesota #minneapolis #waterfall
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Day 7 - Minneapolis Sculpture Garden #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #minnesota #minneapolis
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Wednesday, July 26, 2017
Day 6 - Hammerheart #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #minnesota #beer #metal
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Canada, Part 1: Ontario and the north side of Lake Superior
Ontario exceeded my expectations.
I was on the fence about going around the north side of Lake Superior, or about venturing through the UP. I have seen most of the UP east of Marquette a number of times. While I would like to venture further west, living in Michigan, I figured I could do that any time. So it was kind of on a whim that I decided to make the trip go around the north side of the lake, and I'm really glad I did.
The border crossing took a little while. There was a long line of cars at the Canada side of the bridge. Having a car full of stuff, and never crossed the border as an adult before, I didn't know what to expect. They did ask me to speak with an immigrations officer, which I was assured was totally normal for people entering the country the first time.
And that was fine. The longest/worst part was the waiting. I sat and waited for probably a half an hour before someone finally talked to me, and she said she had just assumed I was with the guy next to me and sorry to leave me waiting. The interview was short, basically just repeating what I had told the guy at the window outside, and that was it. They did a very brief vehicle search, I think just to make sure my story added up (I was going camping, I'd be in Canada less than a week, and I was going on a longer road trip) and I didn't have any weapons within arms reach. He opened a few containers, moved some things around, and that was it.
Right away I was put into a different head space, being in a different country, and that was the intent. Kilometers? Why are the gas prices 111.9? The road striping is a little different (but in a good way?), I was hearing the occasional person speaking french, their moose crossing signs are hilarious -- it looks like the moose is charging out into the highway. But a lot of the familiar chains were there. Their Walmart "Supercenters" are smaller than an average one in the US, but whatever. It's different, but not that different. Big trucks with flags attached to the back of them is apparently a thing there, too.
O, Canada!
Just outside of Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, the Lake Superior shoreline was already giving me goosebumps. I have seen and been in Superior many times, and the Pictured Rocks area is no joke -- but this was unlike anything I'd ever seen before. It honestly reminded me of pictures I've seen of other rocky shores in Europe. The lake is so big that it looks like an ocean, and there are huge rock formations, the shoreline is rocky and hilly, there are pieces of land jutting out into the water, islands, etc. I'm kicking myself for not stopping and getting pictures even of that, but I think the rest of the drive made up for it.
Driving through the Lake Superior Provincial Park was probably the most picturesque, and not coincidentally where I was stopping often and taking pictures. It seemed like every few miles (kilometers) there was something new to stop and take a look at. (I'll insert a big gallery with all or most of my Ontario highlights at the end of the post.)
All of the Trans-Canada Highway that I was on was great. Smooth roads, although I had to stop for construction several times, and you can tell a lot of people make it a goal of theirs to do the whole thing. I saw many other travelers, mostly Canadian but an occasional American plate. Cars, motorcycles, bikes. Actually quite a few people on bikes. I met a guy at the first rest stop I slept at who was riding from Quebec City to Vancouver.
It's interesting how different many of the parks I've been to already have been from Michigan State Parks. There is very little hand-holding. The first stop I made, a pretty good sized waterfall on the side of the highway, didn't have any guardrails or stairs or anything. You were allowed to go wherever you wanted. Out onto the rocks in the middle of the river, even. Seems like a very much Don't Be Stupid attitude, and I have to say, I like it. I'm sure these parks don't see as many people as some of the Michigan ones do. But, fewer accommodations, too. (More on that when I get to Sleeping Giant.)
Somewhere along the way, I think when I first came into Thunder Bay, I heard a mother and daughter having a conversation. It started out in French, then the daughter replied in English. And they continued conversing like that, understanding each other but still speaking the language they were most comfortable with. Never witnessed that before.
And of course, Canadian accents. Any Canadian who says they don't sound how we (Americans) think they sound is in denial. It was immediately perceptible. No, it wasn't "Eh" at the end of ever sentence. It's subtle. Different "So"s even. And the "Yah." Two different times I found myself in conversations and caught myself drifting into it. I was already aware that I do this a bit, but yeah. I was sounding proper Canadian. Put me on a hockey broadcast, I'm ready.
I stayed in Thunder Bay longer than anticipated, but mostly due to terrible/non-existent planning and lots of indicision. I criss-crossed the town several times, then backtracked way further than I should have when I went to Sleeping Giant. In all I probably put on an unnecessary 100+ miles just in that area. But lesson learned -- and that's a subject for another post.
Sleeping Giant Provincial Park was a place I wanted to go while I was doing research, but I didn't plan it well. I passed it on the way into Thunder Bay, because I wasn't ready to go when I first passed. I thought "Oh, I'll camp tomorrow." Well, tomorrow came and by the time it was noon I still wasn't ready or hadn't made up my mind. Wasn't until about 3pm that I decided I was going to do it. Took an hour to get back to the park, I took probably an hour packing up my backpack to walk in (6.5 kilos/~4 miles to my eventual campsite). I didn't end up sitting down or relaxing until almost 8.
I only paid for one night of camping. I probably should have done two. But I figured I would hike some of the trails the next day, head out, still have time to check out some of the sights, and then move on from Thunder Bay. Well, I was wrong.
The hiking was really intense, my brain wasn't converting km to miles very well, and even less well into time. I wanted to take one of the trails that went to the top of The Giant, walk part of the shoreline, and come back. Well, two hours into hiking and I wasn't even half way done with what I intended on doing that day. I eventually bumped into three people, they kind of asked my plan and where I was headed, and immediately seemed worried/doubtful. I had clearly over estimated what I could get done in a day. They said I probably could have done what I wanted to, but I wouldn't be back to my camp site until 8, 9, or 10. (Oh, and I had to be out of the park by 10 o'clock.) By then I was already low on water, only brought one snack, and the hiking was so severe (and I was alone), that I was legitmately concerned I might hurt myself, especially as fatigue set in.
Honestly, as soon as they left me I felt really embarrassed. Unprepared and unrealistic. I'm sure they didn't dwell on our conversation the way I did, but I felt like a dummy. I hiked up a little further before realizing even an abbreviated version of what I wanted to do was more than I had bargained for that day, so I turned around and walked the same route I had taken back to my campsite. I considered going for a brief swim -- but I had honestly tired myself out already, it had cooled down, and I had to soon pack up my stuff and walk out. So the nice little beach my tent was 10 feet from was sadly mostly wasted.
My legs are finally starting to feel normal. My feet feel a lot better, but my lower legs are still achy from all the hills.
---
My re-entry into the US, which I was actually told several times would be more complicated, wasn't. It was basically "Do you have anything bad?" "I have some oatmeal." "Welcome back." Slightly paraphrased.
---
Pictures
A lot of these got out of order as I uploaded them. I fixed some, but really can't be bothered with the rest. Sorry. They're all pretty. http://imgur.com/a/e9EQm
I was on the fence about going around the north side of Lake Superior, or about venturing through the UP. I have seen most of the UP east of Marquette a number of times. While I would like to venture further west, living in Michigan, I figured I could do that any time. So it was kind of on a whim that I decided to make the trip go around the north side of the lake, and I'm really glad I did.
The border crossing took a little while. There was a long line of cars at the Canada side of the bridge. Having a car full of stuff, and never crossed the border as an adult before, I didn't know what to expect. They did ask me to speak with an immigrations officer, which I was assured was totally normal for people entering the country the first time.
And that was fine. The longest/worst part was the waiting. I sat and waited for probably a half an hour before someone finally talked to me, and she said she had just assumed I was with the guy next to me and sorry to leave me waiting. The interview was short, basically just repeating what I had told the guy at the window outside, and that was it. They did a very brief vehicle search, I think just to make sure my story added up (I was going camping, I'd be in Canada less than a week, and I was going on a longer road trip) and I didn't have any weapons within arms reach. He opened a few containers, moved some things around, and that was it.
Right away I was put into a different head space, being in a different country, and that was the intent. Kilometers? Why are the gas prices 111.9? The road striping is a little different (but in a good way?), I was hearing the occasional person speaking french, their moose crossing signs are hilarious -- it looks like the moose is charging out into the highway. But a lot of the familiar chains were there. Their Walmart "Supercenters" are smaller than an average one in the US, but whatever. It's different, but not that different. Big trucks with flags attached to the back of them is apparently a thing there, too.
O, Canada!
Just outside of Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, the Lake Superior shoreline was already giving me goosebumps. I have seen and been in Superior many times, and the Pictured Rocks area is no joke -- but this was unlike anything I'd ever seen before. It honestly reminded me of pictures I've seen of other rocky shores in Europe. The lake is so big that it looks like an ocean, and there are huge rock formations, the shoreline is rocky and hilly, there are pieces of land jutting out into the water, islands, etc. I'm kicking myself for not stopping and getting pictures even of that, but I think the rest of the drive made up for it.
Driving through the Lake Superior Provincial Park was probably the most picturesque, and not coincidentally where I was stopping often and taking pictures. It seemed like every few miles (kilometers) there was something new to stop and take a look at. (I'll insert a big gallery with all or most of my Ontario highlights at the end of the post.)
All of the Trans-Canada Highway that I was on was great. Smooth roads, although I had to stop for construction several times, and you can tell a lot of people make it a goal of theirs to do the whole thing. I saw many other travelers, mostly Canadian but an occasional American plate. Cars, motorcycles, bikes. Actually quite a few people on bikes. I met a guy at the first rest stop I slept at who was riding from Quebec City to Vancouver.
It's interesting how different many of the parks I've been to already have been from Michigan State Parks. There is very little hand-holding. The first stop I made, a pretty good sized waterfall on the side of the highway, didn't have any guardrails or stairs or anything. You were allowed to go wherever you wanted. Out onto the rocks in the middle of the river, even. Seems like a very much Don't Be Stupid attitude, and I have to say, I like it. I'm sure these parks don't see as many people as some of the Michigan ones do. But, fewer accommodations, too. (More on that when I get to Sleeping Giant.)
Somewhere along the way, I think when I first came into Thunder Bay, I heard a mother and daughter having a conversation. It started out in French, then the daughter replied in English. And they continued conversing like that, understanding each other but still speaking the language they were most comfortable with. Never witnessed that before.
And of course, Canadian accents. Any Canadian who says they don't sound how we (Americans) think they sound is in denial. It was immediately perceptible. No, it wasn't "Eh" at the end of ever sentence. It's subtle. Different "So"s even. And the "Yah." Two different times I found myself in conversations and caught myself drifting into it. I was already aware that I do this a bit, but yeah. I was sounding proper Canadian. Put me on a hockey broadcast, I'm ready.
I stayed in Thunder Bay longer than anticipated, but mostly due to terrible/non-existent planning and lots of indicision. I criss-crossed the town several times, then backtracked way further than I should have when I went to Sleeping Giant. In all I probably put on an unnecessary 100+ miles just in that area. But lesson learned -- and that's a subject for another post.
Sleeping Giant Provincial Park was a place I wanted to go while I was doing research, but I didn't plan it well. I passed it on the way into Thunder Bay, because I wasn't ready to go when I first passed. I thought "Oh, I'll camp tomorrow." Well, tomorrow came and by the time it was noon I still wasn't ready or hadn't made up my mind. Wasn't until about 3pm that I decided I was going to do it. Took an hour to get back to the park, I took probably an hour packing up my backpack to walk in (6.5 kilos/~4 miles to my eventual campsite). I didn't end up sitting down or relaxing until almost 8.
I only paid for one night of camping. I probably should have done two. But I figured I would hike some of the trails the next day, head out, still have time to check out some of the sights, and then move on from Thunder Bay. Well, I was wrong.
The hiking was really intense, my brain wasn't converting km to miles very well, and even less well into time. I wanted to take one of the trails that went to the top of The Giant, walk part of the shoreline, and come back. Well, two hours into hiking and I wasn't even half way done with what I intended on doing that day. I eventually bumped into three people, they kind of asked my plan and where I was headed, and immediately seemed worried/doubtful. I had clearly over estimated what I could get done in a day. They said I probably could have done what I wanted to, but I wouldn't be back to my camp site until 8, 9, or 10. (Oh, and I had to be out of the park by 10 o'clock.) By then I was already low on water, only brought one snack, and the hiking was so severe (and I was alone), that I was legitmately concerned I might hurt myself, especially as fatigue set in.
Honestly, as soon as they left me I felt really embarrassed. Unprepared and unrealistic. I'm sure they didn't dwell on our conversation the way I did, but I felt like a dummy. I hiked up a little further before realizing even an abbreviated version of what I wanted to do was more than I had bargained for that day, so I turned around and walked the same route I had taken back to my campsite. I considered going for a brief swim -- but I had honestly tired myself out already, it had cooled down, and I had to soon pack up my stuff and walk out. So the nice little beach my tent was 10 feet from was sadly mostly wasted.
My legs are finally starting to feel normal. My feet feel a lot better, but my lower legs are still achy from all the hills.
---
My re-entry into the US, which I was actually told several times would be more complicated, wasn't. It was basically "Do you have anything bad?" "I have some oatmeal." "Welcome back." Slightly paraphrased.
---
Pictures
A lot of these got out of order as I uploaded them. I fixed some, but really can't be bothered with the rest. Sorry. They're all pretty. http://imgur.com/a/e9EQm
Some Posts Coming
Hopefully I will get some more time to sit down with my computer and unwind and reflect in the next day or so. And hopefully get some good sleep. My body is missing my comfy new mattress already, and not so much the sleeping in the car and on the ground.
Even though I stuck around Thunder Bay, ON longer than anticipated, so far I've been pretty much go-go-go. It will be nice to sit down for a while longer. I'm in the Duluth Public Library (main branch) right now -- which is huge, by the way -- but it's down town and I'm paying for parking and I already fed the meter once. I think after it expires this time I'm going to go get something to eat and maybe head to one of the smaller branches.
Anyways, at least a post reflecting on Canada coming up, then probably a "trip so far" kind of post.
I went to sleep in a super bad mood, thinking I wasn't having fun, but today I'm in better spirits.
More later.
(Oh, and I saw people call both Thunder Bay [a town of 100,000] and Duluth [80,000] "small towns." I'm in downtown Duluth and it's... pretty big. I know I'm about to see much bigger cities, but yeah. Perspective, I guess. Pretty easy to see why everyone who visits Traverse City always thinks it's so tiny. It's grown a lot since moving there in 1992 -- but yeah, I guess maybe it's pretty small.)
Even though I stuck around Thunder Bay, ON longer than anticipated, so far I've been pretty much go-go-go. It will be nice to sit down for a while longer. I'm in the Duluth Public Library (main branch) right now -- which is huge, by the way -- but it's down town and I'm paying for parking and I already fed the meter once. I think after it expires this time I'm going to go get something to eat and maybe head to one of the smaller branches.
Anyways, at least a post reflecting on Canada coming up, then probably a "trip so far" kind of post.
I went to sleep in a super bad mood, thinking I wasn't having fun, but today I'm in better spirits.
More later.
(Oh, and I saw people call both Thunder Bay [a town of 100,000] and Duluth [80,000] "small towns." I'm in downtown Duluth and it's... pretty big. I know I'm about to see much bigger cities, but yeah. Perspective, I guess. Pretty easy to see why everyone who visits Traverse City always thinks it's so tiny. It's grown a lot since moving there in 1992 -- but yeah, I guess maybe it's pretty small.)
Day 6, Mile??? - Gooseberry Falls #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #minnesota #outdoors #waterfall
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Tuesday, July 25, 2017
Monday, July 24, 2017
Sunday, July 23, 2017
Saturday, July 22, 2017
Day 2, Mile 666 - Nothing too exciting (Thunder Bay) #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #canada #ontario
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Day 2, Mile 583 - Kama Bay #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #canada #ontario
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Day 2, Mile 546 - Ross Port #tonygoesonaroadtrip #roadtrip #canada #ontario
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Friday, July 21, 2017
Day 1, Mile 349 - Wawa... If there was any doubt I am in Canada, it should be gone. #tonygoesonaroadtrip
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Wednesday, July 19, 2017
Monday, July 3, 2017
(Some of the reasons) Why I'm leaving
You know, the thought that you blew your 20's surprises me, because I've always looked up to your skill building abilities. You've seemed to keep very true to yourself, without being a total ass along the way.This was one of the first responses to my Facebook post about planning on leaving for this trip. And you know, she was right to an extent. Another person pointed out, pretty accurately, that it sounded like early-onset midlife crisis.
I think a wasted 20's would have been throwing yourself into shit because you felt compelled to for some BS social reason, as opposed to your heart/mind.
My twenties have just been ... interesting.
If I go back in time about ten years, to about 19-22-years-old or so, I feel like I had a really good idea of who I was. I was directionless, sure, but I had a pretty strong sense of self. Of who I was and what I believed in. I spent a lot of time listening to music, reading, writing, wandering around in the woods. None of it was "getting" me anywhere, but I guess I did what I think almost everyone does at that age: I found myself.
But in the ten years since I think I lost myself again. I spent a few years without a real job, thinking I was going to drop out and live off the land. I spent a few years learning how to make fire by rubbing sticks together. I spent a few years learning how to hunt. I spent a few years learning how to take care of a puppy. I spent a few years learning how to make bows and arrows. I spent several years riding my bike everywhere, thinking I would never own a car again, then followed that up by figuring out how I'd be able afford a car. Then another time. I spent a few years learning how to take care of my body and make myself stronger. And finally, I've spent a few years steadily employed, though mostly part time for little money, wondering if this is the way forward.
It's an eclectic, perhaps "interesting" way to spend a decade, but I don't really know that it got me anywhere. Somewhere along the way I found something that was really enriching and that I was passionate about, but over time I found the passion leaving and I've drifted out of the community. I now compromise with myself too much. I procrastinate. I rarely read books anymore. My interest in music disappears for long stretches of time. I've lost any connection I had with most of my friends. I'm probably hanging on too tightly to my past.
Then, of course, last November I had a lot of old things and feelings come back to me. Maybe it's passion, maybe it's hatred for the way things are, or anxiety about things to come. I started to feel 19 again—with some of the good things that come with being that age, and also, unfortunately, many of the less good. But with the uncertainty and directionless wandering also came a little bit of fire. A little bit of don't-give-a-fuck.
I want some of what I had when I was 19 back—and I also want some of it that I've lost to be gone forever.
One of the biggest things is that in the last ten years I don't know who I've become. And I don't really know the best way to go about figuring that out. I don't know if I want to change who I am because I'm not sure I know who I am.
Maybe driving around the country by myself won't solve any of these problems. In fact, it could create new ones. It will be a lot of time by myself, spent in self reflection. A lot of time thinking. I'm sure I will get lonely. I'm sure there will be days when I'm not having fun and I miss my dog and my bed and the comfortable groove I've been deepening day after day. But one thing is for sure: It's a big step out of my comfort zone, and I think that's basically what I need.
It will therefore, hopefully, also be a time for growth. For realization, for strength. No change occurs without a stimulus.
It will be an opportunity to see amazing places. To meet people I never would have met otherwise.
It will be an opportunity to learn from the discomfort.
Maybe I can learn who I have become.
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